Get ready to be amazed! Turquoise lakes, mountains as far as the eye can see, breathtaking scenery – welcome to Banff and Jasper National Parks, aka the Canadian Rockies. A top-rated summer destination, we decided to travel from Banff to Jasper by van in September. In this article, I’ll give you a day-by-day itinerary of our trip between Banff and Jasper. For advice on how to plan your road trip, read this article: The Ultimate Guide to Planning Your Jasper and Banff Itinerary.

Day 0 – Landing in Calgary

September 15, 2023 | Temperature: 17°C | Weather: Cloudy

Our itinerary for this trip between Banff and Jasper begins with our arrival in Calgary. From Toronto, Calgary is the closest airport to Banff National Park. After a 4-hour flight and landing at 10 pm, we had no choice but to sleep in a hotel close to the airport until we could pick up our van the next day. We chose to stay at the Acclaim Hotel by Clique Calgary Airport. The room was very spacious! (at the same time, everything was much more spacious with what was waiting for us afterwards).

Day 1 – Start of our Banff to Jasper Trip Itinerary

September 16, 2023 | Temperature: 17/28°C | Weather: Sunny

Meeting Michel (Mich-Mich)

After a good night’s sleep, Harry from Radventures picked us up directly from the hotel to take us to our future home on wheels. Note that, depending on your arrival time, they offer to pick you up directly from the Calgary airport (when you find out where the vans are stored, you figure no Uber will take you there).

There we finally meet Michel, our home for the next few days. The pick-up is very straightforward: Harry shows us the various items of equipment (mattress, bedding, crockery, camping table and chairs, camping stove, water canister, cooler, USB charging port and the famous bear spray we bought as an extra) before handing over the keys.

Obligatory trip to the supermarket

On board Michel, our Banff Jasper trip itinerary begins! We headed for the Superstore supermarket to do some errands. As we didn’t have a fridge, we opted for non-perishables such as pasta and rice, which we used to make salads for our hikes. If it helps, here’s a list of what we bought:

• Pasta / Rice
• Sauces: tomato sauce, pesto
• Eggs
• Canned goods: chickpeas, tuna
• Tomatoes / Avocado / Banana
• Chips / Muffin
• Cereal bars
• Olive oil
• Salt & Pepper
• Propane gas bottle (the most important thing if you hope to be able to cook)
• Garbage bag
• Towels / Paper towels

Direction Banff

Then it was off to Banff. After a 1h30 drive, we arrived at one of the most popular destinations in the Canadian Rockies. To access the park, you’ll need to buy the Discovery Pass. If you can, I advise you to buy it in advance. If this isn’t possible, you can buy the pass directly at the toll booth. However, be prepared to wait several tens of minutes.

For parking in Banff, there’s free parking for 9 hours next to the train station. There are signs everywhere, but just in case, I’ll share the free parking link with you.

It’s September 16, 2023, and incredibly hot. We almost wish we’d brought shorts! (spoiler alert: those shorts would have come in handy only that day). With our pants rolled up and flip-flops on, we headed for downtown Banff. We discover a charming little town. Surrounded by mountains, turquoise lakes and picturesque architecture, you’re really in a mountain village.

After taking a tour of Banff, which is mostly made up of a few streets, we landed at Park Distillery. They distill their own gin and vodka, which they then use to make incredibly good cocktails. The cocktails (yes, with an “s”) I tasted are in my top 5 of the best cocktails I’ve ever had in my life. They also do a restaurant, which unfortunately we didn’t try, but the food looked very good! In search of steak frites, we ate at Earls.

First night at Tunnel Mountain Village campsite

To finish the day, we headed for our campsite (Tunnel Mountain Village). Check-in is very simple, you just have to show up at the entrance with the code they sent you by email. The person at the reception will explain the safety rules to avoid attracting bears or any other wildlife (I must admit that when she told us they’d seen a bear roosting 2 days before, we got a bit of an adrenaline rush) and will give you a map of the campsite and show you to your pitch. Once you arrive at your spot, you’ll find a large parking area for your van, a picnic table and a fire pit. On this campsite, you’ll be able to take a hot shower, use the toilet facilities and charge your phone using the sockets in the bathroom. We’ll only be staying one night.

Day 2 – Sulphur Mountain hike

September 17, 2023 | Temperature: 7/21°C | Weather: Cloudy and sunny

Sulphur Mountain hike

After a good 10-hour night’s sleep, we set off for our first day rested and refreshed. After our first breakfast at the campsite, we set off for the Sulphur Mountain hike. There’s free parking at the start of the hike. At 11km and 665m ascent, it took us around 2 hours to reach the summit. The hiking trail is wide, well-signposted and covered by numerous fir trees. In terms of difficulty, I’d consider it moderately difficult, because although the trail climbs literally the whole way, you won’t need to climb rocks or venture into narrow paths. Still, we were sore for 2 days after this hike!

Breathless and sweating, we reach the summit, and what a sight it is! The panoramic view over the town of Banff is truly breathtaking. You admire this town surrounded by mountains and bordered by turquoise rivers.

What I didn’t like was that the summit had been completely converted. You can have a coffee, eat at the restaurant (with an incredible view, admittedly), buy souvenirs and even visit a small exhibition. While it’s nice to enjoy these comforts once the effort is over, I found that they detracted from the charm of the place.

If you don’t want to do the hike, you can take the gondola to the top for C$40 (plus tax).

Banff Upper Hot Springs

After about 1h30 of descent, which is so much more enjoyable than the climb, we stumbled across the Banff Upper Hot Springs. Being an attraction recommended in almost 100% of guidebooks, we were disappointed when we saw the place. We were expecting a large pool with a breathtaking view. But, in the end, it’s a small pool with, admittedly, a view of the mountains, but clearly not the best of views. Nevertheless, if you’re interested, you’ll have to pay C$17.5 (excluding taxes).

Lake Louise Soft-Sided Trailer/Tent Campground

And so, physically tired, we set off for our new campsite: Lake Louise Soft-Sided Trailer/Tent Campground. Slightly more modern than its predecessor, it nevertheless offers the same facilities. You’ll be able to take a hot shower, use the toilet facilities and charge your phone using the sockets in the toilets. Note that the bathroom is heated!

We end the day with our first aperitif around the fire, which we proudly made, eating pesto pasta. The happiness level is at its peak. Once night falls, temperatures cool off very quickly, so we don’t linger too long. What’s more, we know what’s in store for us the next day!

Day 3 – Lake Louise and Moraine Lake

September 18, 2023 | Temperature: 6/15°C | Weather: Cloudy, drizzle

Shuttle to the lakes

Today, we’re up at 6 a.m. to catch the much-coveted shuttle to the famous Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. Indeed, given their popularity, these lakes have seen an increase in visitor numbers in recent years. Parking spaces next to Lake Louise have become so popular that you’ll have to arrive before 7.30-8 a.m. to get one. For Moraine Lake, it’s even more complicated because the road to get there is completely closed to private vehicles. So, the most practical way is to reserve a place on a shuttle bus that will take you to both lakes. Tickets for this shuttle open at 8 a.m., 48 hours in advance. Yes, you have to earn your way to these lakes! Nevertheless, once you’ve got your tickets, you’ll be able to take the shuttles all day long. So you can see both Lac Louise and Lac Moraine in a single day. Price: C$9 / person.

If, unfortunately, you can’t get on these shuttles, you can always turn to organized tours.

Moraine Lake

With our precious tickets in hand, we headed for the park and rode to Moraine Lake. After a 25-minute bus ride on mountain roads, we finally arrived at this magnificent lake and had the chance to enjoy it with very few other people.

So we started by hiking the Moraine Lake Shoreline Trail (3.8km – 96m elevation gain), which circles the lake. Unfortunately, it decided to rain. So we took refuge in the Moraine Lake Café. They offer a wide range of hot drinks and snacks. The wait was really long, but my hot chocolate was good!

Consolation Lakes

We then headed for the Consolation Lakes hike. I have to admit that the sign at the start of the hike indicating that it’s advisable to be a group of 4 people to complete this route put a bit of pressure on me.

Nevertheless, armed with my bear bell, the adventure begins. The 6km hike, with its 65m elevation gain, isn’t complicated in itself. However, to get to the lake, you’ll have to “climb” some rocks.

Lake Louise

Safe and sound, we returned to the parking lot to catch the shuttle bus to Lake Louise. It’s about a 20-minute bus ride from Lac Moraine to Lac Louise. Although we felt the touristy side of Lac Moraine, it’s nothing compared to Lac Louise. The lake is incredibly beautiful: a turquoise lake surrounded by mountains, it’s totally an extraordinary spot! Nevertheless, it’s very crowded. Compared with some of the other lakes we visited later, I found Lake Louise overrated.

To get away from the crowds, we set off on the Lake Agnes Trail (7.4km – 384m elevation gain) up to the famous Agnes Tea House. Perched high in the mountains, this café offers a well-deserved break after 3.5km. However, a victim of its own success, by the time we arrived many hikers were waiting for their tea.

In the drizzle, we decided to head back down and take the shuttle back to the campsite. However, the rain made us realize that life in a van in the rain is very restrictive. With laziness on our side and a strong craving for pizza, we headed off for dinner at Timberwolf. It’s a generous American-style pizza, but clearly, after a day of hiking in the rain, it’s a real treat!

Day 4 – Takakkaw falls

September 19, 2023 | Temperature: -1°/9°C | Weather: Cloudy with snow

Takakkaw Falls, one of Canada’s highest waterfalls, is about a 30-minute drive from Lake Louise Soft-Sided Trailer/Tent Campground. Once you’ve parked in the free parking lot, the road to the falls is very easy. You walk up the river, which is a very special colour, before reaching the bottom of the falls, where the magic happens

After taking a ton of photos, we head for the Takakkaw Falls and Yoho Lake Loop hike. This 10.6km, 589 m elevation gain is one of the most natural hikes we’ve ever done. The trail is narrow, vegetation is everywhere and we meet no more than 5 people. The higher we climb, the foggier the weather becomes, adding an even more mystical touch to the place. When we reach Yoho Lake, it’s snowing like crazy! Hungry as we are, we decide to settle down and literally have a picnic under the snow.

Arriving at the highest point of the hike, we had an incredible view of Takakkaw Falls. However, with snow and clouds in the air, visibility is very poor.

The way back is rather difficult, mainly due to the many stones that were damp from the weather. Nevertheless, with good hiking boots (and good knees), it’s totally doable.

Exhausted but proud, the weather clear, we meet up with Michel and head for the campsite to chill out around the fire.

Day 5 – Lakes Herbert, Hector and Peyto

September 20, 2023 | Temperature: -1°/9°C | Weather: Cloudy

Heading for Jasper via the Icefields Parkway

We’re already halfway through our stay! After breakfast at Laggan’s, we leave Lake Louise and head for Jasper via the famous Route 93, commonly known as the Icefields Parkway. On this 230km road, you won’t have a network or the possibility of refuelling. I therefore strongly recommend that you download a map of the surrounding area.

Herbert Lake

Our first stop is Lake Herbert. We followed the Herbert Lake Trail (1.61km – 27m elevation gain) around the lake. With its emerald green colour, it’s totally different from any other lake we’ve seen. The 1.6km trail is clear and easy to access.

Hector Lake

Then it was back on the road to Hector Lake. After struggling to find parking, which is totally on the side of the road, we set off on the Hector Lake Trail. At 4.5 km and 114 m elevation gain, the trail is open and shaded for most of the way. During the hike, you’ll pass through a forest, and skirt a river before reaching this magnificent turquoise lake. There must have been a maximum of 10 of us on the beach beside Hector Lake. We loved it! To prolong the pleasure, we took the opportunity to picnic on the beach.

Peyto Lake

However, the cold soon caught up with us. So we headed for the parking lot to set course for Peyto Lake. As soon as we arrived, we realized we’d changed the whole atmosphere! The parking lot is huge AND (almost) full. We walk over to the footbridge that gives you a lovely view of Lac Peyto. And now we understand why it’s so popular. With its fox-like shape, its turquoise colour and the fact that it’s surrounded by mountains, it’s a breathtaking landscape! We decided to move away from the popular footbridge to follow the Peyto Lake Panorama View trail (2.41km – 93m elevation gain). In just 15 minutes of walking, we had a better viewpoint, which we shared with only a dozen or so people.

Rampart Creek Campground

After a day rich in incredible scenery, we decided to discover our new campsite for the night. We stayed at Rampart Creek Campground, halfway between Jasper and Lake Louise. Unlike our previous campsites, this one is more… rustic. Indeed, check-in is on your own, and facilities are basic. Although the campsite is similar to the others (i.e., you’ll have a picnic table and a fire pit), you’ll only have dry toilets at your disposal.

By our campfire, we enjoy our famous pesto pasta (with fried eggs on top, please) before falling asleep at 9.30 pm.

Day 6 – Boundary Lake and the Valley of the 5 Lakes

September 21, 2023 | Temperature: -3°/14°C | Weather: Sunny

Day six, and it’s under a ray of glorious sunshine that we hit the road again, reaching Jasper in the late evening. We take in the incredible scenery as it unfolds before our eyes. Every two minutes, I marvel, exclaiming “It’s so beautiful!”.

Boundary Lake

On the way, we stop to discover Boundary Lake (2.9km – 102m elevation gain). This easy trail of just 3km takes us to the lake, which quickly becomes my favourite. Indeed, with its colour that I describe as “glacial blue”, it has nothing to envy the very popular Lac Louise and Lac Moraine. Bonus: we’re literally the only ones enjoying this gem. It was, I think, at this very moment that I developed a passion for lakes.

Valley of the 5 Lakes

On a cloud of happiness, we set off again for the Valley of the 5 Lakes. It is from there that we’re back to the telephone network! As the name suggests, this 4.8km trail, with its 161m elevation gain, takes you past 5 beautiful lakes. I’ll let you be the judge.

Whistlers Campground and the discovery of Jasper

Muscle fatigue starting to set in, we decide to check in at our Whistlers Campground before heading off to Jasper. This campground is huge. It’s got all the necessary amenities: a fully enclosed hot shower, conventional WC, electric sockets in the toilets, sink outside with a heater, a food truck and even … deer! Yes, I was quietly washing the dishes when I saw some little deer grazing on the grass in the greatest calm.

The campground is 4km from Jasper, so we decided to take a look around. Unlike Banff, we didn’t find any free parking. Nevertheless, we parked at the Jasper Car Park, just off Jasper’s main street. The town is very small but has a lot of charm.

This is also where we discovered this gem: I’m Bananas over you. If you live in Ontario or Quebec, you know that you can only buy alcohol in special stores, which limits the selection. In Alberta, we were able to discover spirits that are impossible to find in Ontario. If you like rhum arrangé and bananas, I won’t disappoint you. We discovered it at Jasper Park Liquor.

We ended our sixth day drinking our I’m Bananas over you around the fire.

Day 7 – Pyramid Lake, Maligne Canyon and Old Fort Point Trail

September 22, 2023 | Temperature: -3°/18°C | Weather: Sunny

Maligne Canyon

Last full day in the Jasper region before heading back to Banff. We start the day at Maligne Canyon. We follow the Maligne Canyon Loop (3.7km – 124m elevation gain), which offers us views of different heights of the Canyon.

Pyramid Lake

Then it’s on to Pyramid Lake Loop (6km – 211m elevation gain). At the top, we discover this panoramic view of the Pyramid and Patricia Lakes. It’s with this view that we decide to settle down for a picnic with Chip and Dale!

Whistlers Summit Trail

Finally, to end the day on a high note, we wanted to do the Whistlers Summit Trail with Jasper Tramway, which offers an incredible view of Jasper. However, we hadn’t noticed that we had to take a gondola to access this hike (yes, it’s in the name…), which costs C$67 (excluding taxes) per person. If we’d wanted to reach the summit without taking the gondola, we’d have had to follow the Whistlers Peak Trailhead, but unfortunately, we didn’t have the time (nor the strength, we must admit, after 7 days of non-stop hiking).

Old Fort Point Trail

So we turned to the Old Fort Point Trail (3.7km – 175m elevation gain). The first few metres are quite steep, but the panoramic viewpoint over the Athabasca River is well worth it! The way down is fairly straightforward and the trail is clear. The trail follows the wildlife corridor, but we didn’t come across any wild animals.

Jasper

Safe and sound, we returned to our Whistlers Campground campsite. To celebrate our last day in Jasper (and because pesto pasta is cool, but after a while, it gets a bit boring), we ate at Syrahs of Jasper. They offer atypical meats such as bison and elk. I’m not a big fan of meat on a daily basis, but I must admit that when I go to a restaurant, I like to treat myself to a good piece. Nevertheless, I opted for safety by turning to the New York Steak, which was particularly tender.

Day 8 – Return to Banff and Athabasca Glacier

September 23, 2023 | Temperature: 3°/6°C | Weather: torrential rain

Athabasca Glacier

Last full day of our Banff to Jasper trip itinerary before heading back to Toronto, and Alberta is as sad as we are to leave it. Indeed, today it’s not a drizzle like we’ve had on previous days, but a torrential downpour. Initially, we’d wanted to do a few hikes along the way, such as Bow Glacier Falls, but unfortunately, we weren’t able to. During a brief clearing, we stopped at Athabasca Glacier.

In particular, we saw people walking on the glacier. If you’re interested, this is the Ice Explorer.

Back to Banff

Apart from a quick break for lunch at the Bow Lake Viewpoint in the van, we covered the 300km from Banff to Jasper in one go.

Arriving in Banff, we chilled out in town and had a drink at the Banff Ave Brewing Co. before struggling to find a seat in a restaurant. A word of advice: if you want to eat at a particular restaurant, book in advance. In the end, we ended up at Balkan, which offers Greek cuisine (if you don’t know me, I have a passion for souvlaki, so you can imagine that my joy level was at an all-time high).

Back at Tunnel Mountain Village campground, we spend our last night in the van with a touch of nostalgia.

Day 9 – End of our Banff to Jasper Trip Itinerary

September 24, 2023 | Temperature: 8°/14°C | Weather: Cloudy

Last day, we’re up early to meet Harry from Radventures at 10 am next to the Calgary airport. After a quicker drop-off than the pick-up, we say goodbye to Michel. Harry takes us back to the airport and we’re back on the plane for home, Toronto. Our Banff to Jasper trip itinerary comes to an end, physically exhausted but with a wealth of memories.

What we spent

Expenses	Amount for 2 people (taxes included)	Comments
Plane ticket Toronto-Calgary	C$428.43
Parking	C$7.50
Fuel	C$158.02	We travelled about 1000 km
Van rental	C$1,482.06	This price includes airport pick-up and drop-off, as well as bear spray rental.
Hotel night at Calgary	C$154.00
Camping	C$357.00
Groceries	C$242.45
Alcohol	C$246.45	Well, clearly, this budget can be reduced.
Restaurants / Bars	C$966.30
Discovery Pass	C$164,13
Shuttle Lake Louise/Lake Moraine	C$19,00
Total for 2	C$4,225.34
Total for 1	C$2,112.67
Total per day per person	C$234.74

A Final Word

In conclusion, congratulations on reaching the end of this article! This Banff to Jasper trip itinerary was simply incredible. It was my first experience in a van, and I found it the easiest (and possibly the cheapest) way to discover the region. Even though we did not travel during the high-peak season, everything – and I mean everything – had to be booked in advance. It’s an extremely popular destination, but when you see the photos, it’s easy to see why, isn’t it?

La Bise,